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J..G. LEWIS & R. HAMILTON.

TROUSERS, 8110., AND PATTERNS THEREFOR.

No. 478,195. Patented July 5, 1892.

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' UNITED ST TES PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN G. LEWIS AND HAMILTON, OF JEFFERSON CITY, MISSOURI; SAID HAMILTON ASSIGNOR TO SAID LEWIS.

TROUSERS, 86C., AND PATTERNS THEREFOR.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 478,195, dated uly 5, 1892- Application med September 29,1891. Serial No. 407,172. (Nomodeh) To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that we, JOHN G. LEWIS, a citizen of the United States, and RICHARD HAM- ILTON, a subject of the Queen of Great Britain, residing at Jefferson City, in the county of Cole, State of Missouri, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garments and Patterns Therefor, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention has relation to garments such as pantaloons, overalls, drawers, and the like-and to a pattern.

In has for its object, among others, to avoid the piecing of the top of the back of the garment by avoiding a high point at the top of the pattern, thus also effecting a material saving of material.

It has a further object in avoiding the ordinary surplus and high point at the top of the back and inseam of the leg just below the seam, thereby giving a better fit to the garment and taking less goods. We give the inseam-line of the back and the seat-curve a peculiar shape.

The pattern may be cut so as to employ the ordinary front pattern, or it may be cut for use with a special front. When out for a special front, as will be hereinafter set forth, the long projecting point on the inside of the back of the leg when turned inward between the legs reaches above the center or lowest point of the crotch or the crotch-line. This projection permits us to cut the front of the garment narrower at the top of the inseam on the leg, whereby we are enabled to lay three frontpatterns side by side in the same length of goods that is, if a front pattern is forty-two inches long we can out three front patterns or the fronts of three half-pairs of pants out of fortytwo inches of goods when the goods are over twenty-six inches wide, and we use mens patterns-that is, sizesranging from thirty t0 thirty-six inches waist.

The above general statement of the character of the invention indicates some of its objects and advantages, while others will appear in the following description, and the novel features of the invention will be particularly set forth in the claims.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is a diagram of the back with its integral crotch-piece laid fiat, as when applied to the material from which the garment is to be cut. 2 is a diagram of the front, and Fig. 3 is a vlew of the garment with the legs spread out and looklng at the crotch.

Like letters refer to like parts in all the figures of the drawings.

A, Fig. 1, represents the patterns for onehalf of the back.

The dotted lines A A designate the hip and knee lines, respectively, of the pattern. The outer side line A of the pattern may be straight and coincide with the edges of the goods from which the garment is cut, and for nicety in fitting the limbs and hips said lines may be inwardly curved, as shown at A; or, if preferred, gores may be formed on top for fitting the hips. In ordinary garments these lines A and part of the gores may be omitted.

The inseam-lines of the backs of the legs from the point A to the point A are curved inward from a line drawn through said points, as seen at A and from the point A to the point A the inseam-line extends outward from a line passing through the points A and A the pointB being inward from said line A or on said line or within one inch outward of said line, whereas in prior constructions this point was three inches (more or less) outward from said line. The line from the point B to the point A by Way of B forms a convex line, or it may be straight or extended outward, so that the point A at the top of the back will fall outward from its present position, as indicated by the dotted line A. By this construction we avoid a high extension at the top of the pattern, and thus dispense with piecing of the top of the back of the garmentand economize in material. This further dispenses with the surplus of goods at the top of the back and inseam of the leg just below the seat, and thus gives a better fit to the garment. The triangular piece 0, formed on the inside of the back of the leg when turned inward between the legs, projects upward above the center point of the crotch or the crotch-line G. This permits us to cut the front of thepants much narrower at the top of the inseam of the leg, as seen in Fig. 2. This triangular piece may be out upon the line B A A or upon the line B C A, in which latter case We use the ordinary front pattern incommon use; but when out upon the former line we use the front pattern, which is shown in Fig. 2 and represented by the letter D, the outseam-line D of which is substantially straight, being slightly curved at the upper end,as seen at D when the back is formed with a corresponding curve, the inseam-line being on a slight curve from D to D, the said point D falling forward of the center of the crotch. It will be observed that a line drawn perpendicular to the line D" D throughihe point D falls on or inward from the line D D D. On the other side of the pattern the falling away is only between the points D D. It will also be observed that the line D D D is convex, the same as the line A B B, on the back, from which it will be seen that the fit of the garment around the lower part of the body is obtained, by these curved ordiverging lines in place of long converging points, as heretofore.

I-laving cut our pieces from the above-described pattern, we stitch the backs and fronts along the outer seam-lines D and A and then stitch the inseam-line from A to the point A and from thence along either the line A A or A C according to the manner in which the patterns are out, the lines D D and O B B A coinciding and are stitched together, the long projecting point on the inside of the back of the leg being curved inward between the leg and projecting upward above the center point of the crotch or the crotch-line.

lVe may sometimes employ a reinforcingstrip E at the crotch, as seen in Fig. 3; but

this may be present or not, as may be deemed expedient.

It will be noticed that the usual surplus or fullness of material in the back is taken up by the curvature of the lines A B and D D", thus contracting the garment to fit the waist. The further contraction by the curvature of the lines B B and D D reduces the surplus in the lower half of the back, while the fullness required for the seat is provided by the extensions O on the backs and D on the fronts. Transferring the major part of the fullness to the back enables us to cut more fronts from the goods, as hereinbefore stated.

What we claim is 1. A pattern for a garment of the class described, comprising front and back parts, each having curved inseams, each extending outwardly from a line perpendicular to the kneeline, said extensions projecting above the hipline and terminating at the top in concave lines, the extension on the back being greater ghan that on the front, substantially as speciled.

2. A garment having extensions in the back of each leg and seat portion, projected outside of a line perpendicular to the knee-line and having the lower half of the back of the body portion extended toward said perpendicular line, the extension on the back being greater than that on the front, as set forth.

In testimony whereof we affix our signatures in presence of two witnesses.

Witnesses:

W. M. TODD, C. B. SIMOOE. 

